I have had a pal snes 1 chip-02 with serial number 17.8xx.xxx for a couple of years now, obviously had to do the brightness mod by adding three 750 ohm resistors.

I recently acquired another 1 chip-02 console with serial number around 18.2xx.xxx with c-sync still.

I was surprised brightness is already correct on this one, unmodded.

It has the same chips only the date codes are different of course.

It also doesn't get quite as hot around the voltage regulator and heatsink.

Was it always a lottery for 1 chip-02's?

I played on this snes when I was younger for years with my uncle he's unfortunately passed now and I now have the snes and when looking though it i found this special pro/turbo controller I remember him using it a bit but not much when I try to use it tho it doesn't work at all or I walk in a single direction but when I look up the controller online I can't find anything on in at all I can only find a 6 button version not this version at all hopefully someone can help with more info

I never had SNES and never played Donkey Kong Country before. So this is my first time. And I'm on the first level with the mining cart riding. I bet it won't be the last level like that?

So I'm maybe 30% in, just before the 2 barrels, one with DKC logo and another with the stars (what that barrel does?). I've just saved — yes, I'm using save states, cause without them I wouldn't survive here at all! :)

I've tried to beat this level like 20 or more times, and I died. Only 1 time I managed to get to the arrow sign, signaling the exit is near, only to be demolished by the cunningly placed rat in the speedy opposite cart :) It's cool, I appreciated the devilish trick of Rare.

So guys, how did you manage to beat this level back in the day? I would lose all my 28 lives right here and had to start collecting them from scratch!

And do you have any tips for me? As far as I understand, I can't control anything here apart from jumping time, right? No speed up, no breaks, no jumping height or direction, nothing.

UPDATE #1: Hey guys, thank you so much for overwhelming response to my little post. Great learning from you and delving deep into the past times!

UPDATE #2: Guys, tonight I managed to beat that level! I was smiling all the way from the arrow sign to the end, right after I managed to notice that last kremlin in time and — more importantly — jump over him successfully :) On the way there I lost Donkey Kong, but I still got by with Diddy.

Thank you all for sharing your memories, tips and time with me here! I'm continuing to slowly unfold and experience this fantastic game, and now I'm in awe and terror at the level 'Stop And Go' and wonder how I will ever be able to beat THAT now :)

I've been playing this game since yesterday and it's incredible. I had heard of it before but thought it was just a game with nice graphics; however, it is undoubtedly one of the best 16-bit platformers—no exaggeration. If you haven't played it yet, play it as soon as possible and see for yourself

Comprei alguns jogos que não consegui confirmar a autenticidade exata pelo SNES Central. Alguém com mais conhecimento poderia me ajudar a confirmar?

Turtles in Time e Aladin estão impecáveis, parecem que saíram da loja recentemente e não há mais de 30 anos, mas parecem originais. Selos brilham na label e os componentes da PCB parecem originais. Só que o Turtles in Time tem o código da placa SHVC-1A0N-10, mas no SNES Central só tem placa SHVC-1A0N-02 registrada

Os dois Donkey Kong parecem ser nacionais gradiente ou playtronic

Não entendo muito, se houver alguém que possa me ajudar agradeceria de mais. Preciso ter certeza se comprei itens autênticos ou se tomei um golpe comprando repros se passando originais.

Vlw seus retrogamers :)

UPDATE: Its real! i got it opened up at a game store and me and the guy behind the counter discussed and compared it to other pictures of the motherboard online. everything checks out inside and out 😀 (excluding the screws being slightly different colors)

Basically the title. I have a 1CHIP-01 SNES that I want to do the vertical line fix on, but I need some clarification on what capacitors to buy and where they go. So far I have the idea that a 1000uf 16V OS-CON cap goes in the unpopulated area labeled, "OS-CON" under the heatsink, and that a 470uf cap should be soldered to the ground and output pins on the voltage regulator. Is this correct? Can the 470uf cap also be OS-CON, and should it also be 16V? I see Bob from RetroRGB replacing the 1uf cap on the back of the board near the regulator, is this necessary when adding the other caps?

Sorry for all the questions, but if anyone could help me out I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks!

I remember staying up nights with my best friend trekking through the world and storyline of Chrono Trigger. That was a magical time. The physical games pass along, but the memories are forever! I wish I had kept Secret of Mana through the years as well, those two were my favorite RPG of all time.

I've thought this for nearly 30 years when I first heard it on the radio but have never heard anyone mention it.

I’ve been down the rabbit hole lately making custom physical packaging for homebrew games, trying to capture that exact "fresh off the shelf in 1995" feel.

This one is for ANGELSONG, a 16-bit homebrew game. I wrote the back-of-box story copy myself and named the tiny cherub Lucid—since cherubs names end in “ID” like Cupid— In the game he’s assigned to tend to a sky garden full of sick, dimming sentient stars.

I tried to dial in every single detail on the packaging to match real Nintendo manufacturing standards from the era:

* Custom Lore Copy: Wrote a 90s-style back-cover blurb establishing Lucid's mission in the High Garden.

* Authentic SNES Serials: SNS-AS-USA for the game code and Game Pak (SNS-006) for the cartridge shell hardware code.

* Easter Egg Barcode: Custom prefix encoding "Jam 25" (526) as the registered publisher, 83 for the Nintendo system code, and sequence 001.

* Period-Accurate Layout: Complete with 90s ESRB ratings, Official Nintendo Seal of Quality, and the top-end label fold for the cart so it looks right on a shelf.

\* Integrated Wing Logo: Arranged the artwork into a high-impact pre-rendered wing emblem (Donkey Kong Country and Super Mario RPG* style).

* Modified Nintendo Coloring: I modified the custom red Nintendo to an Ice Blue to match the heavenly aesthetic.

* Custom Logos: I even made custom logos for the creators since they don't already have logos.

Would love to get your thoughts on how the physical layout and the back story turned out! Does it scratch that mid-90s nostalgia itch, or is there any obscure retail detail I missed?

Vi que alguien jugaba al Mario World y con las donaciones le caían mobs. Alguien sabe como configurarlo?

It's very different from the original. I hope some of you like it! :)

Hi everyone!

I just bought a RAD2X adapter to connect my SNES on my TV, but the problem is that I have a black screen.

I'm sure that the adapter works and the SNES too, because I tested both of them at the retrogaming store.

When I connect everything, the adapter LED is purple, that means the problem is with my TV.
I have a Samsumg QLED QE43Q67A from 2022.

Thanks for your solutions 🙏

I've been playing The Firemen recently, the game is pretty good, and is a good challenge too. I'm running into something that might be game ruining for me though. Sometimes, out of nowhere, my life bar completely drains down to 1hp. I'm not getting hit by anything, sometimes i'm just walking in a area completely devoid of fire and the life bar just depletes. It happens multiple times in a run also. Does someone know what is happening ? I can't find any info on that it seems.

When I first started this SNES journey, this was on the Mount SNES’More and it was almost always out of reach until I found a copy of the game a few months back then the box and guide tonight!? Living my best SNES life! Playing the game for the first time and it is worth all the hype. so yes dreams do come true lol. Any suggestions on a clear protective case for this grail!?

I almost cried as i saw this. Destroyed image, pixelated garbage, but Games are running fine.

I'm an electritian so i did not ran the console for long, max 20-30 seconds, but was enough.

i startet measuring and found shorts D0, D1, D2 to 5V. i liftet the legs of the ram, to determine if its the ram or the cpu. happily it was the ram, so i replaced it, i had a pin compatible ram chip with same specifications from another manufacturer. so should work. after replacing the chip with hot air and cleanup the pcb, i had test the console, but issue stays there. so i think the cpu (specially the ppu1 part of the s-cpun is defective.

so, i think the ram took the cpu to death...