Happy to say that today I was able to play my first matches on a self-moving wooden chess board I have been working on for the last 2 months :)). This is my first Pi project and it took my a while to familiarize myself with it but I'm really happy with it.

The Pi is connected with a Pico SKR V1.0 controlling a CoreXY System with an electromagnet. Additionally to 64 omnidirectional hall sensors on 8 custom PCBs via pin header and IO-Expander. Some momentary push buttons, a 5" LCD-Display and Status-LEDs on the side-walls as well.

Currently Stockfish, Maia3, Rodent IV and Patricia run it.

Matches are being recorded and saved as PGNs. With that, it saves the position, I can turn off the board and play on later.

I'm now working on connecting it to Lichess's and Chess.com's APIs, so I can play actual online matches on the physical board, where the PIs WIFI capabilities will come in handy. Additionally voice command so the board can execute a players move, if enabled.

After that a menu with an UI for the LCD screen which is embedded in the wall on the side, connecting everything cleanly.

Still a long road ahead, but truly happy that today, for the first time, I could sit down and play a full match with it :D!

Hey everybody. I ported original 1993 DOOM to my old Mi Redmi AC2100 router. The hardest thing was to figure out the controls and display output for this thing because I didn't really want to use compuer for any of that. So i built a small controller out of RPI Pico, ST7789V display and W5500 Ethernet module. Image is sent via UDP unfragmented packets 4 lines at a time. So every frame is 80 packets. Input is also sent through UDP, but packets are much smaller. I have a repo if anybody wants to try this at home: https://github.com/anhol0/redmidoom

I hope you enjoy it. And have a good day :)

A celebration of my most recent acquisition for my Raspberry Pi Collection. I was able to buy a Limited Edition Blue Raspberry Pi #0932. Let’s pray this meets the standards of the forum. 🙄

I'm trying to find the PWM frequency of the latter, GeekPi keeps giving these docs: https://wiki.52pi.com/index.php?title=F-0011 But it does not specify the PWM frequency.

I'm trying to make a custom application with the PI and this fan. I do not care about whether I can cool the PI at this time, just that it works.

I've already tried Searching Reddit, DuckDuckGo, Amazon (where I got it), and ChatGPT but there is not a specific answer (or any answer to be exact).

So I'm on Bullseye, and I really think I should upgrade to the latest OS. Last time I ignored official recommendations and just did an in-place upgrade from Buster to Bullseye, but this time I think I should do it right. So how do you guys preserve your custom configs and installed packages, while doing a major OS upgrade?

I paint tabletop miniatures, and photographing them always meant dragging out lights and a backdrop and getting a different result every time. So I built a permanent booth: a black box on my desk with a Pi 3B and the HQ camera on the back, a 5-50mm C-mount varifocal lens*, and an LED strip inside. Put a model in, open the web page on my phone, shoot.

The software is a Flask + picamera2 web app I wrote for it. A few things that might be interesting from a Pi point of view:

• Focus stacking on a 1 GB Pi. Big models have a tiny depth of field up close, so you take 6-10 frames at different focus points and merge them. The usual tool (focus-stack) ran out of memory on the 3B and left a glow around the model on a black backdrop, so I wrote a small OpenCV stacker that works frame by frame. It peaks around 300 MB and takes 2-3 minutes for 8 frames of 12 MP.
• Keeping captures fast. PNG-encoding a 12 MP frame takes 10-15 s on a 3B, so a capture just grabs the frame, writes a raw TIFF and returns. Compression, stacking and uploads run in low-priority background jobs.
• Live preview runs in the HQ camera's binned 2028x1520 mode and switches to full resolution only for the capture.

It also does presets that load at boot, crop for tall/wide models, histogram and clipping overlay, storage on a USB disk, upload to Google Drive or a NAS, a system page with temps, throttling and logs, and updates from the browser. Install is a single curl command.

Code (MIT): https://github.com/MichaelTimmermans/MiniatureStudio
Printable booth parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7416432

Tested with the HQ camera and a USB webcam so far; an Arducam IMX519 (autofocus, so fully automatic stacking) is next. A Pi 4/5 is a lot quicker at stacking, but the 3B does the job if you're patient.

This is all built with spare parts from previous projects, hence the underpowered 3b. I did print some parts for camera mounting.

Questions and ideas welcome.

*currently still using an 8mm fixed lens.

Hi, I won't be showing off the build since it was really just a quick git pull and telling claude to make changes to the android build and compile, but I did want to show it off. It runs at a pretty solid 30 FPS and runs just as well as it did on the OG xbox... which is actually kind of impressive if you think about it. Yes Im running it on a 32:9 monitor.

It's a Pimoroni Inky Impression 13.3" (EL133UF1, Spectra 6). The official driver is Python for a full Pi, but I wanted to run it off a Pimoroni Pico Plus 2 W (RP2350), so I ported it to C. Basic bring-up is here if anyone wants to try it: https://github.com/dmellok/el133-pico-driver

It covers panel init, test patterns, and JPEG decode plus dithering on the Pico itself.

The dashboard is styled after classic Mac OS: current weather and the next 24 hours, a week forecast, a calendar, and air quality. There's also a moon phase panel, mainly as an early warning for full-moon cat behaviour. The cat photo is a placeholder for now; (I'm still working on Immich integration for Tesserae Cloud but it's fully supported in the self hosted version)

It's rendered by Tesserae, a self-hosted e-ink dashboard server I build:

• GitHub: https://github.com/dmellok/tesserae
• Website: https://tesserae.ink

Happy to answer questions about the port or the panel!

So I have two pico and I made one of them a slave and the other one a master using pico sdk. I have a temp. sensor GY-906 MLX90614 connected to slave through i2c. What I am trying to do is get the temperature readings from sensor to slave pico and send it to the master pico. But I am getting some weird values when I try to read it on the master side. For eg. the sensor outputs both 7 bit as decimal values 50 45 (sensor sends LSB first). But I am getting values that I am not able to make sense. so I try sending 0xff 0xff as 2 byte data to the master from slave. I am getting 255 255 but sometimes I get 255 128. Then I changed it to 0x02 0x02 I get 3 3 in between and and 0 0 majorly. I am just a beginner regarding embedded and pico. Obviously the dataframe that is transmitted isn't being read like it should be. What is the problem here?

Hello, I can't get my Raspberry Pi 5 to work with Windows 10 Remote Desktop. I've tried lots of different tutorials, but it never works.

What happens is that I manage to connect via Remote Desktop locally (direct ethernet cable between the PC and the Pi 5), but after 30 to 40 seconds, it disconnects me. After that, it's impossible to reconnect without turning the Pi 5 off and on again.

I have the exact same issue with SSH.

The only thing that works without disconnecting is using Raspberry Pi Connect. However, that's not a viable solution for my setup, and if the SSH connection drops for example, Raspberry Pi Connect stops working as well and then i need to do a off/on.

I really need your help, I'm completely stuck and have tried everything within my knowledge, but failed...

UPDATE :

I solved my problem in the following way: create a Wi-Fi hotspot on Windows. Then, connect the Raspberry Pi to this Wi-Fi within the time frame before it glitches. Retrieve the IP address using the 'hostname -i' command (also available in the Windows Wi-Fi hotspot configuration window). Finally, connect to the Raspberry Pi from Windows via SSH or Remote Desktop with the IP Adress.

Hey everyone,

For the last few months, I’ve been working on a Raspberry Pi hobby project, trying to solve a problem that was never really there. But I had a lot of fun building it, and I’m kind of proud that it actually worked in the end :’)

It’s basically a “now playing” system for my turntable, with a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W running the whole thing.

I’m using an Audio-Technica LP120XUSB turntable which, as the name suggests, has a USB audio output. That made me wonder whether I could connect it directly to a Pi, listen to the audio input and automatically figure out what record/song is currently playing.

For the output I chose a 64×64 Divoom Pixoo pixel display. Pretty much any display could work, but I really liked the pixel-art aesthetic.

The basic pipeline is fairly simple:

Turntable → USB audio → Raspberry Pi → song recognition → metadata/album cover → Pixoo display

The Pi records a few seconds of audio, sends the snippet through ShazamIO for recognition, fetches the song information and album artwork, generates a 64×64 layout and sends it to the display over the local network.

But I kind of got carried away and went way overboard with it xD. It can now:

• switch between vinyl recognition and Spotify as the input source
• connect to Discogs and check whether the detected record is in my collection
• control and monitor everything through a local web app
• fetch lyrics and additional song information
• configure the display layout, fonts, colors, scrolling text, etc.
• keep listening statistics for songs, albums, artists and genres
• automatically discover and communicate with the Pixoo on the network

The code is on GitHub if anyone wants to have a look, build something similar, or use parts of it for another Raspberry Pi display project.

Let me know what you think! I’d also be interested in ideas for other things I could add or improve :)

Cheers!

Just wanted to share I finally got WireGuard set up with pivpn on my Raspberry Pi. Now I can control Home Assistant and anything else on my home network from anywhere.

The journey started when I got a GL.iNet travel router to use on my DJ mixer. When the WiFi is running from the travel router I can control my mixer with my iPad.

Next I wanted a way to access my NAS back home that has all my music. I could just use the web interface, but I wanted to work just like I do at home by using the traditional file explorer. I set up WireGuard on the router and pivpn on my Pi and I'm golden!

Lastly I set up tethering on my phone so when we travel all our devices connect to our personal WiFi network automatically. Not Pi related but another win for us.

I'm beyond thrilled and can't believe I was able to actually do this.

What's next?!

Port MG24Quake to a rp2350 board(pimoroni explorer), pak0+program used almost all 16MB xip flash memory.

I got tired of tweaking 3D models to get the RPi cases I wanted for each project. So I built a small browser tool for designing 3D print parts, including different Raspberry Pi enclosures, cases (with or without lids), simple organizers and Gridfinity bins. I called it CaseTinker.

The workflow is simple: choose a template, adjust the dimensions and options, check the 3D preview, then download .STL or .3MF for your slicer. For cases, you can change the lid style, connector openings, ventilation and clearance. For organizers, you can set the size and number of compartments.

You can also engrave short text into the lid and add surface patterns such as honeycomb or knurled textures. You can get a customized case model into your slicer in a couple of minutes. Having a different case for each RPi helps me remember what each project actually does.

I will continue to add other models in the app. Note that the Gridfinity bins currently have stepped feet and optional dividers. They don’t yet have magnet holes or a stacking rim (those are possible future additions).

The tool is free to use, with no account required. You can save designs in your browser and create a share link. Anyone with the link can open a copy with the same customized model and print the enclosure. Here is the link:

>> CaseTinker

I’m interested in how it works for people with different printers (I use a Bambu Lab P2S) especially where tolerances need improvement. You’ll still want to check your dimensions and slicer settings before printing. If you make something cool with this let me know. I’d love to see the result.

All 139,255 neurons of the FlyWire FAFB v783 reconstruction — a complete adult female Drosophila brain, though not the ventral nerve cord —simulated on a Pi 5 alongside mGBA, using connections of five or more synapses.

The spatial layout of walls, doors and people is read out of the game's memory and fed to the looming-detector populations (LPLC1, LC10, LPLC4) as left/right drive. It isn't doing image processing — there's no retinotopy, which is the honest limitation. Descending neuron activity decodes into button presses.

Stack: Pi 5 16GB (Rev 1.1, stock 2.4GHz) with a Silicon Power A60 1TB — DRAM-less Phison E15, PCIe 3.0 — 800x480 DSI touchscreen, active fan on the 4-pin header.

Runs at roughly real time, and deliberately uneven: the brain gets the full 16.7ms of thinking time per frame while the fly is navigating, and the game runs about 3x faster in battles and menus where its vision drives nothing anyway.

The brain gets 2 of the 4 cores, and OMP_WAIT_POLICY is PASSIVE. Spinning cost real throughput — 4 threads PASSIVE 0.759x vs 4 threads ACTIVE 0.665x — because the spinning threads starved the video encoder and the display of the cores they needed.

Twitch chat can stimulate its reward and punishment neurons directly, which does real plasticity on the mushroom body. It forgets in about ten minutes, though that decay constant is one I picked rather than measured.

It has a Rattata. It wandered into a Pokémon Center and a man sold it a Magikarp for 500.

Twitch.com/leetzerzz

Connectome: FlyWire FAFB v783, CC-BY-4.0 —Dorkenwald et al. 2024, Schlegel et al. 2024.

I built a portable 3D-printed instrument to turn the Roland MC-101 into a much better groovebox, with the help of a Raspberry Pi, PiSound, Korg nanoKONTROL, headless M8 tracker and a few additional parts.

The PiSound can route live external sources such as guitars or vocals straight into the MC-101. So can finally sample anything without a Mac or phone.

To reduce menu diving, the

nanoKONTROL can edit all synth parameters of the MC-101 Partial

Editor. I wrote a script that sends SysEx messages and overlays a visual HUD directly onto the M8's display, showing what is being tweaked without hiding other relevant information.

The M8 can do additional sequencing tasks, such as triggering the MC-101's Scatter effects to generate glitchy patterns. The communication is entirely bidire ctional, i.e.changing a scene on the MC-101 updates the active song row on the M8.

finally got done with the cyberdeck, the last build got over 500 upvotes and almost 1k likes on instagram, and i appriciate the support, i fully blacked it out and added a sound system into the keyboard (which actually sounds pretty good) if the community is interested i could make a video on what i actually use this deck for in my everyday life, thanks for the support again <3

I start using RPi Connect from December 2025. At August 2026 the service works fine, and now, I reinstalled Raspberry Pi OS to Lite version, installed XFCE and want to continue setup the desktop environment at other place via RPi Connect, because I don't have a portable display and keyboard, but when I tried to link my Raspberry Pi with my account, I get this:

Setup: Raspberry Pi 5, Raspberry Pi OS, Home Assistant in Docker. Device: a cheap 3-key + rotary knob macropad, USB VID:PID 1189:8890, WCH CH552G chip. Works perfectly on macOS and a Windows PC (same or different cable).

On the Pi 5, plugging it in normally (all interfaces auto-authorized) enumerates fine, then ~10 seconds later the entire xHCI host controller dies (xHCI host not responding to stop endpoint command → assume dead → HC died), on both onboard xHCI controllers, requiring a reboot to recover. Ruled out: power (vcgencmd get_throttled clean), cable (tried two different cables, no change), USB port/orientation (tried all 4 ports), outdated kernel/firmware.

Device has 4 HID interfaces:

• 0: Boot Keyboard, EP 0x81 IN, 64B
• 1: generic, EP 0x02 OUT only (no IN endpoint — logs couldn't find an input interrupt endpoint)
• 2: generic, EP 0x83 IN, 4B (this is where the actual multimedia key/knob reports come from)
• 3: Boot Mouse, EP 0x82 IN, 4B

Using interface_authorized_default=0 on the root hub before connecting, then manually authorizing/binding individual interfaces, I isolated the failure with usbmon: every single Interrupt IN transaction on interface 2's endpoint (0x83) completes with EPROTO (-71), 0 bytes, every ~10-20ms poll, indefinitely. After enough consecutive errors, usbhid triggers an automatic full device reset every ~40s (re-fetches descriptors successfully, then the EPROTO cycle resumes). With only interfaces 0, 2, 3 bound (not interface 1), the controller survives 40+ seconds instead of dying at ~10s — but no real key data ever gets through.

Has anyone seen this specific failure mode — persistent EPROTO on an Interrupt IN endpoint from a CH552G-based device — cause full xHCI controller death on Pi 5 / RP1 specifically? Is this a known RP1 quirk with certain full-speed devices, or purely a defective/marginal device? Would a USB 2.0 hub with its own power supply be expected to mask this (by re-timing/regenerating the signal), or is that unlikely to help if the fault is at the device's own transceiver?

I've had to use i2cdetect a lot lately and was getting tired of its limitations, so I wrote a replacement. Mine allows scanning all I2C buses at once and can run without sudo if you give permission to your user ID to access i2c. It also includes auto-detect knowledge of 50 devices (so far). I created it as a single .C file plus makefile here: https://github.com/bitbank2/ls_i2c

Here's what it looks like versus i2cdetect:

Update: Added a Photos edition — same Keephaven base, but it runs only Immich instead of the six media apps. For people who just want a private Google Photos on their own Pi: lighter, the whole box to photos, and it updates along its own line so it never gets handed the full-box image. On the download page. Update: Follow-up on the setup password a couple of you got stuck on: no SD-card trick needed now. Plug a monitor or TV into the Pi's HDMI port and the Wi-Fi name and password show on screen until setup's done. New image on the site. Already running it? The HDMI feature comes down as a normal update — just tap Install.

Hey everyone, got something I've been waiting to share. Keephaven is a home cloud box I've been building on a Raspberry Pi 5. As of today the whole OS is open source, and the exact image the boxes run is a free download. Flash it to an NVMe drive and your Pi becomes the same box. What you get on first boot, already set up and signed in: Immich for photos, Jellyfin for movies, Navidrome for music, Audiobookshelf, Kavita for books and comics, and FreshRSS for news. One password for all of it. Network folders too, so you can drag your movies in from any computer.

The part I'm proudest of is it doesn't need the internet to work. It puts up its own wifi, so I take mine camping and stream off it. Some stuff under the hood for the nix people. It's a NixOS flake. There's a byte copy of the system on its own partition, and if the system partition won't mount, the box copies it back on the next boot. Updates are signed, it checks once a day and only installs when you tap install. The app images are pinned and baked in, nothing pulls from docker hub.

Repo: https://github.com/dafarusd/keephaven

Download + checksum: https://keephaven.co/download

Heads up, it's only been tested on a Pi 5 8gb booting from NVMe. The setup wifi password gets made on first boot, and on a box you flash yourself you read it off the drive once, the readme walks through it. AGPL.

heads up for anyone who flashed it themselves: the setup wifi password gets made on first boot, and it lives on the linux partition, so windows and mac can't read it off the drive. easiest fix is the pi itself. boot keephaven once so it makes the password, power off, put in a raspberry pi os sd card, leave the ssd connected, boot again and run: sudo mkdir -p /mnt/keephaven sudo mount -o ro /dev/disk/by-label/cloudunit-data /mnt/keephaven sudo cat /mnt/keephaven/unit.env UNIT_PASSWORD is your wifi and app password. power off, pull the card, boot again and you're back in keephaven. full steps are in the readme: https://github.com/dafarusd/keephaven#first-boot

Hi everyone,
Today I'm showing you my Raspberry Pi case, which cost only €25 and keeps it really cool!

First, I started by looking for a dead 3-slot graphics card, with only two important criteria: it had to look clean, and above all the fans had to work.
I came across a really clean HD 7970 DCU II for €10 on a second-hand hardware site.

As soon as it arrived, I took it completely apart: PCB, metal bracket, heatsink, fans and outer shroud.

The idea here is to keep the metal bracket, the fans and the outer shroud.

Next, I put the 8GB Pi 5 inside (still in the testing phase, I'll need to 3D print a mount for it).

The ribbon cable and the SSD are flipped over to keep the whole thing as thin as possible.

Not visible here, but the 12V power for the fans comes from a 220V-to-12V HDR DIN-rail power supply that costs €10.
Only the PWM and ground are connected to the Raspberry Pi.
I wrote a small Python script that sets the fan speed directly based on the CPU temperature. Running the fans at 30% up to 40°C seems like an excellent compromise.

I've been testing it for a week now and the results are very good!

And here's the whole setup in my network cabinet.

Next step: designing and 3D printing a proper mount for the Pi. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Happy to share the Python fan control script if anyone's interested.

Not bad for €25 and an old GPU that was headed for the bin. Thanks for reading